Sailing in the British Virgin Islands is my idea of paradise and a perfect vacation! The combination of sailing in the near perfect trade winds, the beautiful scenery, the turquoise waters of the Caribbean, the sunshine, snorkeling opportunities and the local seafood make it an epic adventure! The islands are a British Overseas Territory but are self-governed. The currency is the US dollar, English is spoken but of course you will need a passport and the driving is on the left-hand side of the road.
The most epic things to do in the BVI
- Sail to a different island or two each day
- Enjoy snorkeling and seafood
- Repeat
The best way to get there is to fly into St. Thomas (U.S. Virgin Islands) and then take the ferry (www.tortolafastferry.com) over to Road Town, Tortola (British Virgin Islands- BVIs). Alternatively, you can fly via San Juan, Puerto Rico to Beef Island.
Tortola from the Spanish meaning, “Turtle Dove”, is 21.5 square miles, and the largest island in the 60 some islands that comprise the BVIs. Road Town is the main town on Tortola and is also the capital of the BVIs. It is the main center for commerce, shipping and social activity. You can explore the town in an hour or so and then settle on one of the restaurants for dinner on your first and last nights in the BVI as it is a short taxi ride from the city center to the marinas. If you have more time to spend, consider renting a jeep to explore the island or head to a local beach, fish, take a hike in Sage Mountain National Park or wander through the J.R. O’Neal’s Botanic Gardens. The best beaches are Apple Bay, Brewer’s Bay, Cane Garden Bay, Elizbeth Beach, Josiah’s Bay Beach, Long Bay beach and Smuggler’s Cove.
There are several different charter companies located together near Road Town in Wickham’s Cay, including the Moorings and Sunsail. If you have the proper sailing resume, you can captain your rental boat. If not, however, you can also pay for a boat captain and then leave your worries at the dock. Either way, you can rent a variety of different sailboats to fit your needs. We have rented both a 444 Leopard catamaran and a 39-foot Beneteau monohull and have done the sailing ourselves.
On the day you arrive, you can check in and provision your boat and then sleep on the boat that night while it is docked at the marina. You attend a captain’s class the next morning where they update you on any vital information and chart briefings as well as a boat check then you are free to head out for the open waters. The best thing about the BVIs is that there are so many other islands that you could spend weeks visiting them all.
Overnight mooring balls are available on a first come first serve basis. If there is a name of a restaurant on the ball that is where you should go to pay your mooring fee (cash only) or occasionally, they will come out to you in a small boat and collect your fee and they may also give you an opportunity to purchase ice or they may take your trash for a fee.
Once you are docked for the night you can relax on your boat, in the water or at the local beach, bar or restaurant. Some islands have one restaurant, some have a few but they are all fun, causal and geared to the sailing crews.
One of our friends who has sailed many, many times in the BVIs told me that “going up is tough but once you get to Virgin Gorda – it’s great! The water and the winds are consistent, and it is an ideal place to sail.” And I could not agree more! Especially if you also enjoy being in the water too!
Norman Island has a history of buried treasure and pirates. There are caves where you can snorkel at Treasure Point – just take your dinghy from your boat over to the dinghy line. Overnight moorings in The Bight are well-sheltered. At night you can visit the floating schooner “Willy T” for dinner. The ambiance is casual, noisy and slightly riotous – with some visitors jumping from the top deck into the waters below. If you choose to go ashore you can enjoy sunset, dinner and dancing at Pirates Bight Beach Bar & Grill.
Other great areas to snorkel or dive are nearby such as Privateer Bay, Peter Island, Cooper Island, Salt Island – the home to the wreck of the RMS Rhone, Pelican Island and the Indians.
Peter Island is 1800 acres with great beaches – Big Reef Bay, Boater’s Beach, Deadman’s Bay, Honeymoon Beach, White Bay. Enjoy beaches, Rhone wreck, fishing, scuba, snorkeling, hiking, music and food.
Great Harbor on Peter Island is a private island with a beautiful resort, and they do allow sailors to enjoy their restaurants and bars. Although they do request reservations and you may need to inquire as to the dress code. We enjoyed checking it out and having a drink at their outside bar. You can also make dinner reservations for Oceans Seven. As well as hike to Sprat Bay and Deadman’s Bay.
Virgin Gorda from the Spanish meaning “Fat Virgin” is 21 square miles. Best beaches are Big Trunk Bay, Devil’s Bay, Handsome Bay, Long Bay Mahoe Bay, Savannah Bay, Spring Bay, The Baths. Check out Fallen Jerusalem, Little Fort National Park, The Baths, Cooper Mine, Gorda Peak National Park and Spring Bay National Park. There is plenty to do is between the beaches, snorkeling, scuba diving, fishing, and hiking.
The Baths on southwest tip of Virgin Gorda Island are a collection of boulders that have slowly eroded along the coastline and when the sea washes in between the rocks, the water and lighting create a dramatic effect. There is a white sandy beach and excellent snorkeling from the Baths south to Devil’s Bay. You can also hike a trail between the two areas if you prefer.
Bitter End Yacht Club in the north sound, Virgin Gorda is one of my favorite spots. It is so beautiful and close by is Saba Rock as well. Unfortunately, they whole area was destroyed by a hurricane. However, I recently saw that the owners of the Bitter End are rebuilding! I cannot wait to see what they do because I know it will be epic!
Anegada, or the Drowned Island is an amazing place. It is off the beaten path and takes an experienced and dedicated captain to navigate as there is a large reef. Horseshoe Reef, which extends some 10 miles to the southeast and has claimed over 300 known wrecks. Once you are there, plan to spend a little extra time to explore all 11 miles of the special island. You can even rent scooters, bikes or a Jeep here and go from one beach to the other – like Loblolly Bay or Cow Wreck Beach. You must decide which restaurant you want to eat at by mid-afternoon as they all require a reservation. Try the Anegada lobster – they are so big and tasty! There are also flamingos that have a habitat in the salt ponds in the center of the island. And there is even an Iguana facility that cares for Rock Iguanas that you can visit. You can snorkel, fish, take a tour to the salt flats or fish. Best beaches ate Cow wreck and Bones Bight, Loblolly Bay, Pomato Point, Windlass Bight, Flash of Beauty. Jeeps, scooters, bikes.
Monkey Point is at the southern tip of Guana Island and is an excellent day anchorage. There is excellent snorkeling and a small beach area – a perfect lunch stop.
White Bay on Guana Island is less than a mile from monkey point with a beautiful white sand beach. The island itself is private so there is no going ashore but if you want a relaxing, out of the way place to spend the evening on your boat it is a gorgeous spot.
Jost Van Dyke is named after an early Dutch resident pirate. The island is 4 miles x 2 miles. Best Beaches are Great Harbour, Little Harbour, and Sandy Cay. Enjoy beaches, snorkeling fishing, music and food.
Great Harbour on Jost Van Dyke is another one of my favorite spots for overnight because of the beautiful beach and Foxy’s. Along the beach are shops and beach bars and music and people from everywhere. Foxy’s – where friends are meet and memories are made – is an iconic, open beach restaurant where the crowds of sailors gather from everywhere. We have spent many hours meeting and enjoying the company of others. On one trip we even had the great pleasure of meeting Foxy himself and listening to his stories! The place is decorated with “knickknacks” that people bring in from wherever they are from – flags, license plates, etc. We happened to leave our Ohio State gnome “Brutus” there – so look for him on the shelf behind the cash register and say hello. You may also wish to consider packing a little souvenir from your hometown to leave at Foxy’s as well.
If you happen to be on your boat in Great Harbour and a young man on the boat comes to collect your mooring fee and asks you if you want to order “patties” for your lunch tomorrow to take with you – then answer is yes! The wonderful, handheld pies are freshly made and filled with meat or fish and made an excellent lunch on the go! Sandy Cay is a picture-perfect daytime stop for swimming, snorkeling and a hike.
Cane Garden Cay on Tortola is picture perfect with white sand and a palm-fringed beach with a backdrop of green hills climbing to 1500 feet to Sage Mountain and the rain forest. The sunset view is magical, with several beach bars, restaurants and live music.
Frenchman’s Cay Village is iconic with its brightly painted Caribbean buildings. The village has a marine chandlery store, a market, cafes, restaurants – both casual and elegant and shops.
Other islands: Beef Island, Buck Island, Cooper Island, Dead Chest, Eustatia Isd, Fallen Jerusalem, Frenchman’s Cay George Dog, Ginger Island, Great Camanoe, Great Tabago, Green Cay, Great Dog, Great Thatch, Guana Island, The Indians, Little Caminoe, Little Thatch, Marina Cay, Mosquito Island, Necker Island, Norman Island, Pelican Island, Prickly Pear, Round Rock, Salt Island, Sandy Split, Scrub Island, Seal Dogs, West Dogs
Cash is king around the islands. The US dollar is the local currency on both the US and the British Virgin Islands. Most of the restaurants will accept credit cards but it is a good idea to take small bills for mooring balls, trash, ices a local bar and shopping.
Additional items you may want to consider bringing – cozies and Tervis Tumblers, quick dry clothing, extra hand and dish towels, clothes pins, colored light for the boat for evening, trash bags, air freshener, sailing gloves, sunglass cords, an old towel or bathmat is a lifesaver for the bottom of the stairs as well as it can get slippery. I also highly recommend picking up the latest edition of “The Cruising Guide to the Virgin Islands” by Nancy & Simon Scott.
If you love sunshine and water, sailing and snorkeling and adventure and meeting locals then the BVIs just might be the most epic match for you. It is a magical place. You will not be disappointed. Safe travels!
